Day 5-Barcelos to Ponte do Lima-35km
Day 6-Ponte do Lima to Agualonga-20km
Day 7-Agualonga to Tui-22km
The Camino de Santiago is not at all what you expect it to be, nor can you plan for where your mind takes you on it. I was quite sure that the longest distance day was going to be the most difficult. It was definitely hard, and by the time I saw the sign indicating the final kilometre, I was sure it was the best sign I’d ever seen.
Once I got into my room and stripped off my damp clothes, I sat down to write, but my mind was all over the place and the words would not come. There were so many things I saw over the nine hour trek from Barcelos, and the realisation that I was now REALLY out on the Camino was overwhelming. The piles of Stones of Sorrows, the various shrines and signposts, the kind homeowner who has put out oranges, a drinking glass for the fountain, and a jar of sweets for pilgrims made me wonder how there can be so much evil in the world when there is so much good that goes unnoticed.
This post will be short, as words are still not coming easily to me. I have tonight crossed into Spain, and tears of frustration have been shed when I got to my room. My Achilles heel has been found, in the form of the never-ending rain that has fallen the last three days, especially today. The long distance, the flooded sections of trails, the very sharp rocky ascent up the mountain, the moments of exhaustion… nothing compared to how quickly the rain maddens my mind. The feeling of having to be in the cold and wet plastic poncho, wrapping my shoes in plastic bags, the short-lived relief of it stopping and peeling off the wet layers only to have to put them all back on when it starts pouring again, it’s all very rapidly testing my persistence to finish the Camino. I’ve gone from thinking ‘Day 3-woohoo, I want to walk the Camino forever’ to ‘Day 7, only 6 more days until I am finally finished with this.’ I’m hoping for a slightly more dry day tomorrow to boost my perseverance.
Notes about Barcelos-Ponte do Lima-Agualonga-Tui
-The 35km between Barcelos and Ponte do Lima are quite pretty with rolling hills and two climbs that are not really that bad. There is a cafe at the halfway point that was quite pleasant to spend an hour in.
-The Casa de Olivierinha guest house is very nice, with extremely gregarious hosts, who love to engage with their guests. Dinner was fantastic (18,50 Euro) and all made with fresh caught fish and vegetables from their garden. The house itself is about 1km off the Camino in Agualonga.
-I have found that most albergues and cafes are closed during the winter, and the ones that are open may not have stamps if you’re chasing the compostella. Yesterday there was only one cafe listed in Bierley’s that is right before the mountain ascent, and it was closed. There are no clean water fountains between Ponte do Lima and Agualonga/Rubiaes, and with the cafe shut, it’s best to load up your bottles before you set out for the day, because it’s imperative to stay hydrated.
-The descent is quite sharp as well, it’s important to stretch well both in the morning and after walking.
camino de uchuujin 
The hardest journeys provide the best sense of accomplishment. Anyone can take a walk in a park on a sunny, warm day. Only a true pilgrim walks 35km in the lashing rain over mountains. Bom Caminho! ~MichaelSG
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Cyka, just think of how these last few days have shown you parts of yourself you never knew existed! Your spirit is strong, girl, keep on trekking. Abrazos from Laurie
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BTW, do NOT worry about collecting stamps. If you can get two per day, great. Try to but don’t think twice if you find it difficult. If you only manage to get one where you sleep, that will surely be enough. In my two Camino’s to Santiago, I only ever had one stamp per day. If I looked like I took a taxi all the time, they may have questioned me but they didn’t really. They know it is sometimes (often in winter?) difficult to get two. Bom Caminho!
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